Custom Suit Brochure
Congratulations on the purchase of your Astor & Black garment.
Astor & Black takes great pride in providing its customers with the highest quality of hand craftsmanship. Each custom suit is created to the exact specifications and personal taste of our extremely discerning clients. Incredible attention is paid to every detail and finish of each suit and this is why Astor & Black custom suits are so highly regarded.
It is important to us that we convey that same sense of pride to our customers. Therefore we have taken the liberty to include this booklet to point out some of the finer details of your garment, which may escape the untrained eye.
Full Canvas vs. Fused
The primary detail looked at when determining the quality of a garment is the full canvas lining, which is standard on every Astor & Black suit, sport jacket, and coat.
In the tailoring of a suit it is the inner lining which is most important to giving shape and body to the garment. During the process of tailoring the inner lining, two methods are generally employed. The first and cheapest method is referred to as "fused". The fused lining in a garment is a synthetic material cut to size and placed between the outer layers of fabric and heated to a high temperature, where it melts or fuses the layers of fabric together.
The other method, used by all high-end tailors, is "full canvas" also referred to as "floating canvas." In this method actual canvas cloth is cut to the required pattern and then hand-stitched into the fabric layers. A full canvas garment breathes better and has more natural movement and drape because sewn layers can move independently of one another. Astor & Black suits are tailored with the finest full-basted canvassing from Italy.
Although the full canvas method of tailoring can nearly double the tailoring time and increase the cost of the garment, it is well worth it. When a fused canvas jacket gets wet or is dry-cleaned, the synthetic material used to bind garment tends to deteriorate over time and can eventually lead to a permanent ripple/wrinkled appearance on the outer jacket. This is not the case with full canvas garments because in their construction, no binding agents are used other then hand stitching.
So while a full canvas garment may initially seem like more of an expense than the typical fused, off-the-rack garment, the extended lifetime of the full canvas garment will prove it to be a worthwhile investment.
How to tell the difference?
By pinching the fabric at the bottom of a fully canvassed garment you should be able to slightly pull the front and back fabric layers apart and feel a "floating" middle layer between them.
Surgeon Cuffs (Working Buttonholes)
Surgeon cuffs refer to the functioning buttonholes found on all Astor & Black jacket sleeves. The name “Surgeon Cuffs” stems from the time when surgeons would operate in frock coats and would roll back the sleeves when operating. Today working buttonholes have become a sign of fine custom tailoring. The hand stitched reinforced buttonholes are unalterable and therefore possible only on a custom garment. If you should decide to flaunt it, leave the last buttonhole undone!
Natural Horn Buttons
Today you will find that many, if not most, suit tailors and manufacturers are using plastic buttons. Astor & Black uses only genuine horn buttons on all garments.
Handpicked Stitching
Handpicked stitching is one of the most beautiful features of a high-end jacket and refers to the small and unobtrusive stitching that runs along the lapel and edge of the jacket. A sign of true handpicked stitching is its close proximity to the outer edge of the garment and its appearance of being slightly varied.
*Notice how this line of stitching continues on the underside of the lapel and follows all along the edge of the suit.
Reinforced Stitching
All Astor & Black garments have reinforced stitching on the underside of the jacket collar. Our fine tailors add these five layers of stitching to prevent the collar from ever rolling.
Sweat Shields
In the underarm section of every Astor & Black jacket garment you will find a sweat shield, which, as its name implies shields the suit from perspiration and odor.
Bemberg Silk Lining
Bemberg silk linings, which are actually a type of rayon, are considered the finest in the world. These linings are more durable than silk and actually are more expensive in many cases. With its smooth, gentle interface on skin and fabrics, Bemberg has long been the preferred fiber for fine garment linings.
Rubberized Waistband
Your Astor & Black trousers have a stiffer, thicker waistband that is re-enforced to prevent rolling of any kind. You will also find that the inside of the waist is rubberized to keep your shirt from un-tucking or moving around.
Hidden Cash Pocket
You have no need to look any further for a safe place to keep the cash you saved! On the inside of your Astor & Black waistband you will find a hidden cash pocket perfect for traveling or if you should you find yourself on the wrong side of town.
Hem/Heel Protector
When looking at the inside of your pant cuff you will notice a strip sewn to the back half of the pant. This area of the pant is subject to a greater degree of punishment than the rest of the pant, for aside from normal wear, it must contend with the abrasion of the shoe sole that naturally occurs when your pant is proper length and you are walking. This strip protects this area of the pant from catching, tearing, and becoming undone.
Pocket Square
Inside every Astor & Black suit jacket, you will find a built-in pocket square designed to match the custom inner lining. Just pull it out to add that extra special touch sure to make you stand out in any occasion.
Caring for your garment
Wool garments should be dry cleaned only when they are dirty. You will find that you can extend the life of your garment by simply cleaning it only when necessary. The chemicals, solvents, and high drying temperatures used in dry cleaning increase the deterioration of the threads and fabrics of your suit. It is advised that your garment be dry-cleaned as infrequently as possible (only a handful of times a year) to lengthen its lifespan.
A little steam goes a long way. Properly hanging a suit in a steam filled shower-room will both freshen your suit and remove wrinkles. If the garment has deep creases but is not unclean take it to your local trusted dry cleaner to have it pressed.
Should a garment require cleaning be sure to use a quality dry cleaner. Professional Dry Cleaner Certification, Better Business Bureau affiliation, and a highly regarded reputation are all signs of a better cleaning establishment.
We thank you again for purchasing a one-of-a-kind Astor & Black garment. As you have read, we take great pains to ensure that it is made of the highest quality, both for the elements that you see, and also the elements you do not.
David B. Schottenstein
Founder & CEO
Astor & Black Custom Clothiers
