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When you work with an Astor & Black Professional Clothier to create your suit, there are literally thousands of potential combinations of name-brand fabrics and details. (Don’t worry. We’ll walk you through it.) But whether your Astor & Black suit ultimately costs $599 or $18,000 depending on your fabric choice, all of our suits come standard with these features at no extra cost.
All Astor & Black garments have reinforced stitching on the under side of the jacket collar. Our tailors add these five layers of stitching to prevent the collar from ever rolling and to keep it sturdily flipped up when protecting you against the cold or revealing contrast felt and embroidery beneath the collar.
Thanks to our 28-Point Fit Profile, each of your Astor & Black suits will fit you like no other suit possibly could. Your suits will fit better over time as the hand-stitched assembly stretches and the fully canvassed construction breaks in. Our suits actually conform to your body, unlike off-the-rack and made-to-measure, which are machine sewn and fused together so tightly that they never give in.
Hand-picked stitching refers to the small and unobtrusive stitching that runs along the lapel, the edge of a jacket, and sometimes around the pocket flaps. It’s a classic feature of a high-end jacket and a clear indicator that you’re wearing a handmade garment. Look for its close proximity to the outer edge of the garment and its variation both in stitch length and alignment with the adjacent stitch—all clear indicators of custom handwork.
The breast-pocket lining of each Astor & Black suit jacket doubles as an impromptu pocket square. Made from the same material that lines the jacket, all you need to do is reach in and pull it out. Instant cachet!
In the underarm section of every Astor & Black jacket, you will find a sweat shield, which, as its name implies, shields the suit from perspiration and odor.
Jacket linings are the best way to reveal the personalized style of your suit. At Astor & Black, we carry hundreds of silk jacket lining options with everything from a full spectrum of solid silk colors to daring prints, like an abstract paisley or a motif of 1940s-style pinup girls.
When you take the time to create something as personal as your Astor & Black suit, you’ll want your name on it. So we embroider your name on the labels that adorn the inside of your suit jacket and the inner waistband of your pants.
A suit’s inner canvas lining is what gives the suit its shape and form. A full-canvas garment lasts longer, breathes better, loses its wrinkles quickly, and allows for more natural movement and drape because its hand-sewn layers can move independently of one another. All Astor & Black suits are tailored with our signature lightweight canvas from Italy. Most off-the-rack and made-to-measure suit makers reduce costs by eliminating the full-canvas feature. Instead, they “fuse” (or glue) the fabrics together in order to imitate the appearance of a fully canvassed jacket.
With the assistance of your Professional Clothier, you have a wide variety of suit style options to choose from, including 17 different jacket styles, 14 coat features and pocket configurations, and six different pants styles.
Astor & Black trousers have a stiffer, thicker waistband that is reinforced to prevent rolling so they look great without a belt. You will also find a rubberized strip around the inner waistband to keep your shirt from untucking or moving around.
This is one of those finishing touches that seems entirely unnecessary, but you can’t live without it once you have it. A small pocket hidden in the waistband of your pants, it’s ready to hold cash, an ID, a hotel key, or anything else you wish to keep discreetly tucked away.
The term “surgeon’s cuffs” refers to the functioning buttonholes found on all Astor & Black jacket sleeves. The name stems from the time when military surgeons would operate in the field wearing their uniforms and needed to roll up their sleeves while operating. Today, working buttonholes imply that the jacket sleeve length is unalterable and therefore possible only on a custom garment. Should you decide to flaunt it, leave the last button undone and select a different thread color for that buttonhole. Bold!
We want your suit to last a long time, and once you put it on, you will, too. So we’ve addressed one of the most common wear-and-tear areas—the back of your pants cuff. This area is subject to a lot of friction as it moves against your shoe. Our answer? Guard the hem with an extra strip of material we sew on the inside back side of the cuff.
