In our experience as custom clothiers when we create our custom suits and shirts, we find that most gentlemen are wearing either a point, spread, or button down collar because traditional retail stores only offer those selections. The problem that arises in this situation is that these collars may not flatter the shape of your face. Below is a simple guide to help you decide which shape is best for you.
If you have fuller cheeks with a rounded jaw, a more narrow point collar can help to elongate your natural face shape. Look for collars that counter balance your round facial structures.
Best Collars: Standard Point, Button Down, Narrow Point, Hidden Button Down, and Tab Collars.
Avoid: Wide Spread collars; they will make your face appear wider and fuller.
Worst Collar: Wide English spreads.
If you have a square jawline, classic point collars are best for everyday business. For a sporty look, try a button down approach, and a long point, narrow spread for a formal look.
Best Collars: Standard point, Button Down, Narrow Point, Hidden Button Down, and Tab Collars.
Avoid: Wide spread collars; they will make your face appear wider and fuller.
Worst Collars: Medium to Wide Spreads.
If you have an oval face shape with high cheekbones and a narrow jawline, you should counterbalance by choosing collars with a higher degree of spread. It will make your jawline appear wider and more distinguished.
Best Collars: Medium to Wide English Spreads.
Avoid: Narrow Point collars; they will make your jawline look even thinner.
Worst Collars: Narrow Point with very long points.
If you lack neck height, collars cut with normal height in the front and back will make it appear as though you have no neck at all.
Best Collars: Button Downs, Narrow Points, Medium Spreads. They should all be cut with a low front and back.
Avoid: High collars and Wide English spreads; they will make you look heavy and shorter.
Worst: Collars cut with a high front band and English Spreads.
If you have a long neck and you wear collars made with the standard height in front and back, it will only accentuate your neck and make it appear longer.
Best Collars: Button Downs, Medium Spreads, Wide English Spreads. These should be cut with a higher front and back height.
Avoid: Collars made with short point lengths and standard heights. Most ready to wear shirts that you find in department stores are made with a standard height. Your best bet is to have your shirts custom made so you can choose this option.
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